Silver or Silver plate?

First, look for the obvious. Turn the piece over and look for the letters "EP" or "EPNS" stamped into the metal. As you may have guessed, EP stands for electroplate. EPNS indicates that the object was electroplated with silver or nickel.

Sterling Silver
The commonest British standard of silver purity, dating back to the currency in use in England in the 14th century, comprising 92.5% pure silver and the balance of copper and other traces. Now widely accepted as an international standard.

Sheffield Plate
Some people mistakenly refer to all silver plate as Sheffield plate. Sheffield plate is a process that was invented in England about 250 years ago. Sheets of silver and sheets of copper were hammered together until the two became fused. The fused metal was shaped and formed into objects in the same way that silver objects were made. Electroplating, the same process used today, was developed in the middle of the last century.

A characteristic of Sheffield plate is its pleasing, warm color, which is the same as sterling silver. Electroplated objects, on the other hand, have a hard, shiny surface, and lack the warm color. The reason for this is that sterling silver is actually an alloy, consisting of silver and copper. The surface of an electroplated piece, on the other hand, is pure silver.

Britannia Metal
Silvery-white alloy similar to pewter but harder and stronger. Composed of approximately 92% tin, 6% antimony and 2% copper. Often used for making utensils, drinking vessels and decorative tableware. Victorian antiques can be found with Electroplated Britannia metal. (EPBM)

Murano glass, moments of glory

Murano glass has know moments of glory over the centuries as well as moments of decline. However it has always been characterized by an obsessive search for quality. In fact Murano's motives in its pride has always been its aesthetic quality which has often contrasted with its competition and has frustrated attempts at imitation. Through out the history of art, the hollow blown glass of Murano has forged it's own path, it's strength being in its variation of type and class.

From its poly-chromatic glazes and the gold in the cobalt blue of the Barovier cup to the lightness and transparency of its glasses; from the delicateness of the lattice-work to the originality of Murano glass; from the mosaics to the counting beads; from the panes of glass to the mirrors, it all represents the original history of glass.

Murano was a commercial port as far back as the 7th Century, and by the 10th Century it had grown into a prosperous trading center with its own coins, police force, and commercial aristocracy. Then, in 1291, the Venetian Republic ordered glassmakers to move their foundries to Murano because the glassworks represented a fire danger in Venice, whose buildings were mostly wooden at the time.

Murano is a small group of islands lying on the edge of the Adriatic Sea in the lagoon of Venice, about 3,000 meters north of the larger group of islands comprising the city of Venice.

What made Murano's glassmakers so special? For one thing, they were the only people in Europe who knew how to make a mirror. They also developed or refined technologies such as crystalline glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine), multicolored glass (millefiori), milk glass (lattimo), and imitation gemstones made of glass.

Their virtual monopoly on quality glass lasted for centuries, until glassmakers in Northern and Central Europe introduced new techniques and fashions around the same time that colonists were emigrating to the New World.

In the 100 years between 1860 and 1960 the glass producing firms located on Murano rose to world leadership in the production of decorative glass objects. One of the most remarkable aspects of this remarkable achievement is that it was the second time that Murano had attained that pinnacle--and the two occasions were separated by 500 years.

Cleaning Decorative Cut Glassware and Crystal

Glass is made from silica and other materials. It is not affected by the weather nor by most chemicals. Most glassware is easily broken by blows; sometimes hitting it hard only damages the glass invisibly so that later it shatters from just a light impact. Glass is blown or molded into many shapes for decorative items, beverage glasses and other eating and serving dishes.

Crystal is made from the same basic material as glass but lead is added to fine crystal which adds sparkle and strength.

Glass flower vases, cruets, or carafes used to hold water, wine, oil or other liquids may develop stains in the bottom when allowed to set for a long time. Normal washing with soap and water may not get off all the stain. To remove these stains, try the following steps:

• Pour vinegar (brown or white) into glass so as to be above the stain mark.
• Allow to stand 30 minutes to overnight, depending on intensity of the stain.
• Before emptying vinegar, add about 1/2 teaspoon dry uncooked rice, or 6-10 dry beans. Shake glass rapidly so hard grains can rub off loosened stain with a scouring action.
• Pour contents out. Rinse with water. Repeat if necessary.
• If not all the stain is removed, pour ammonia into the glass to be above stain mark and allow to stand over night. Add rice or beans and shake. Repeat if necessary.

Commercial products such as 'Lime Away' or 'CLR' can remove some stains. Read labels and follow directions exactly. You may need to add grains of rice or beans and shake to get scouring action with these products also. If you have crystal vases or carafes, do not leave flowers or food in them any longer than necessary, since chemical changes can occur which permanently stain crystal.

Washing Glassware Decorated with Gold or Silver

Some crystal or fine glassware has a gilt design or edge on the rim of glass or as a decorative design or a patterned glass dish. Never soak such items in solutions containing ammonia, washing soda or heavy duty detergents. Never use abrasive cleaning powders. Use regular mild, hand dish washing detergent and a soft cloth. A precaution would be to rinse such glassware in clear water while food residue is still fresh or soft.

Researching Antique Values

What's it worth? Where can I find the value of my antique?

These are all too familiar questions. Unfortunately these questions are not easy to answer. Most people think anything old is valuable. This is not entirely correct.

Many things effect antiques and collectibles values. Here's a short list of some items that influence prices.

• In order for antiques and collectibles to have value, there must be a demand. People have to want the item in order for it to have value.
• A secondary consideration with demand is liquidity. Some antiques are extremely difficult to sell. They are hard to place values on, or it is difficult to find buyers. The harder it is to sell an item, the lower the value will be.
• In addition to demand, scarcity plays a role. The more people chasing a small number of items, the higher the value.
• A big part of the value of any antique or collectible is condition. For example a common but perfect "10" baseball card will bring three to five times (or more) the value of the same card with wear or poor print registration. On the other hand, some collectibles like coins, stamps, and toys will bring higher prices for factory mistakes. Factory errors can increase the value of collectibles.
• Location also effects antique values. Prices in more densely populated areas are generally higher than prices in the country. Some of this price difference is due to there being fewer prospects, and some is due to attitude differences.

All the items above effect the value of any antique or collectible. Researching price guides and antique markets are other options. Not great options because unless you actually see an item sell, you cannot be sure it is worth the asking price.

You see, antique values are subjective. The only way to get really good at determining values is to immerse yourself in antiques and collectibles.

Antique Valuations Online

We are now offering a new service of antique purchasing from single items up to and including estate disposal in Montreal and surrounding areas.

If you require online valuations of antiques or fine art, we are happy to do so and we can also provide an appropriate written valuation. We only charge $25.00 US, which includes the amount of time it takes to inspect a piece (from photos), do research and prepare a written document, if it's needed for estate purposes.

The valuations do take time and in some cases it can run to hours of research plus we still have to write your valuation and using our two finger typing.....

More info at - www.antiquesndynasties.com/antique_valuations.htm

Authenticity of Glass

As a follow up to my previous article on glass at http://antiquesndynasties.blogspot.com/2005/07/that-glass-is-it-new-or-is-it-old.html

I should add that fakes of many of the more expensive types of antique glass abound. Victorian glassmakers made imitations of 18th-century glass and many fakes have also been produced in the 20th century.

These are often discernible in three key ways:

Colour: The distinctive tint caused by impurities may not be present in reproductions.

Manufacturing methods: Hand-blown glass usually has a pontil mark - a rough bump under the stem - where it was cut from the pontil rod. It may have striations or ripples in the glass and the rim may be of uneven thickness. Later, machine-made glass doesn't have these imperfections.

Proportions: Glass has varied in style and proportion throughout the centuries. On old glasses, the foot is usually as wide as the bowl. The wrong proportions may indicate a fake. This is even true of many depression era repro's. Dimensions are slightly different to the original.

You need to handle a lot of glass from many periods and manufacturers plus ask questions of many reputable dealers so that in time, "the force will be with you."

That Glass. Is it new or is it old?

A question that always needs to be asked when looking at items in stores, shops and online.

The only way we can avoid being taken by these "reproductions" is to inform ourselves with knowledge on who is making them, what they look like and where to find them.

There are thousands of reproductions being imported from other countries daily. Most arrive through your local household auctions. Some are poor examples of the real thing, however many are pretty good.

Don't misunderstand me. There is nothing wrong with a reproduction as long as it is being sold as such.

Here is a link for more information - www.antiquesndynasties.com/depression_glass_reproductions.htm

I would suggest you spend a little time viewing other websites for known reproductions. It will help you the next time you come across one.

If you know of a good online source for reproduction information, have book recommendations, or know of new items on the market, please email us at webmaster@antiquesndynasties.com

John Speed (1552-1629) Antique maps

We have a number of John Speed (1552-1629) small nicely framed prints (coloured) we recent aquired that are for sale. Please contact us for more information.

John Speed was one of the most famous British mapmakers of the seventeenth century, and indeed perhaps the most popular of all with map collectors around the world. Historically he is noted for placing England into the mainstream of map publishing which had been dominated by the Dutch since the late sixteenth century. Speed began by issuing maps of Great Britain as early as 1611 in his famous Theatre of the Empire of Great Britaine, that contained maps of the entire British Isles, their kingdoms, and the counties of those kingdoms.

More info on John Speed - http://www.antiquesndynasties.com/john_speed_antique_maps.htm

The Importance of Cleaning Wood Furniture

Most people just keep putting polish on top of polish without ever cleaning the wood. Few people realize how important it is to clean your wood furniture regularly. Just like any expensive item you own, your wood furniture collects dirt, grease, dust and other foreign material that are present in your home. Any build up of these particles can damage your furniture and should be removed before polishing. That is why we include the Wood Cleaner in our Wood Care Kit. Without properly cleaning your wood furniture at least every other time you polish will evidentially cause a major build up of foreign matter and polish. Yes, even the polish will build up and distort the finish without regular cleaning.

Wood Care Tips

• Dust weekly using a dampened dust free cloth. A damp cloth will prevent scratches
• Clean your furniture every other month
• Polish your furniture every month
• Always use coasters to protect from hot and cold drinks
• Keep your furniture away from direct sunlight, it will cause serious damage to the color and finish
• Keep wood furniture away for heaters and air-conditioning to prevent drying out the wood
• Avoid putting newspapers and magazines directly on wood surfaces, ink can blend into the wood
• Never put plastic or rubber directly on your wood. The chemicals in them can damage the finish
• Don’t slide or anything across the finish, it could scratch the finish
• Moisture is tough on wood furniture. Avoid letting plants touch the surface of your furniture.
• Use felt pads to protect table top accessories from scratching

Answers to Common Problems

Burns: Use 000 or finer high grade steel wool to rub the burned area with the grain. Use a light touch until the burnt wood is smooth. Apply furniture oil or polish.

Water Rings: Mix equal parts of white vinegar and cooking oil. Rub water rings with the grain.

Heat Marks: Use mayonnaise to coat the heat mark area. Let stand for one hour, then wipe clean. Polish when finish.

Candle Wax: Scrape off the candle wax with a credit card. Take off thin layers of wax until you get almost to the finish. Remove the rest with wood cleaner, and then apply polish.

Dents: Wipe off the dented area with warm water. Place a water soaked cloth compress (a folded wash cloth) over the dented area and let sit for 30 minutes. Next, place a warm iron (on a low setting) over the cloth for short intervals until the dent is gone. Apply polish when finished.

I hope these tips will help you maintain the beauty and quality of your wood furniture.

Caring for your Silver

• Set your table daily with silver flatware, it will last forever! Frequent use actually reduces tarnish and develops a glow called patina, which enhances its beauty. Remember to rotate the pieces you use so the patina develops evenly across different pieces of your set.
• Silverware should be rinsed immediately after use, especially after contact with any acidic or corrosive foods such as salt, mayonnaise or eggs. Don't soak silverware in water overnight. Extended immersion can damage the metal. Always wash pieces separately to avoid bumping and scratching.
• Wash silverware in hot, sudsy water, then rinse in clear, hot water. Clean crevices with a worn toothbrush or fine natural-bristle brush. To avoid spotting, immediately dry the pieces with a chamois or soft cotton cloth.
• Although silverware is considered dishwasher safe, hot temperatures can loosen hollow handles or dissolve a decorative, oxidized pattern. Keep detergent to a minimum and remove silverware from the dishwasher before the drying cycle. Never put stainless steel and silverware in the same basket; direct contact can permanently damage silver.
• Polish silverware with a soft cotton or flannel cloth and a brand name liquid or paste silver polish to remove tarnish. Dip polishes are not suggested on intricately detailed pieces; it will remove an oxidized pattern as well as tarnish. Rub each piece lengthwise; never polish clockwise or with a circular motion as this may cause scratches.
• If you use your silverware regularly, expect to polish it just once or twice a year. Avoid wrapping silverware in plastic, aluminum foil or newspaper, or binding flatware with rubber bands, which can result in damage.
• Keep all silverware away from dampness and direct sunlight. Even a light bulb that shines directly on silverware will cause it to tarnish faster than it will in a dark, dry place.
• Store silverware in an air tight silver chest or protective bags made of tarnish proof cloth. To prevent scratching, do not store silverware loose in drawers. Do not use a drawer that is opened frequently--exposure to air promotes tarnishing.
• Avoid storing silverware directly on wood surfaces (especially oak), as wood often contains acids that can mar the finish. Hint: Create your own silver drawer with a length of tarnish proof fabric. Line any drawer with the cloth, allowing plenty of overhang. Place a cutlery rack inside the drawer. Line the dividers with silver cloth, lay silverware in place, then fold the extra length of cloth over the top.
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Care & Cleaning of Crystal also Fine Glass

We sell many fine pieces of crystal, art glass, depression & carnival glass. Many of our customers have asked how best to wash or care for it. So here goes...

Wash one piece of crystal at a time in warm soapy water, using mild soap or hand washing liquid. The interiors of decanters and vases can be cleaned by pouring in rice with warm soapy water and swirling around gently. Rinse with clean warm water and dry immediately. Certain kinds of water leave a lime deposit. Vinegar applied with a cloth helps remove this mark.

When clean and dry, polish with a non-fluffy and lint free cloth to keep your crystal at its sparkling best. Independent research associations have made tests which show repeated washing in very hot water with detergents can damage the surface polish of the finest crystal.

I strongly recommend that you do not use a dish washing machine for your fine crystal.

The finely made rim is the most fragile part of a crystal glass. Never place upside down on a draining board or when storing. The careless knocking together of the rims can cause cracks. Do not hold the glass by the stem or the foot when washing or drying the bowl as the twisting motion thus produced will create undue pressure.

As well...Don't drop it!!

Blenko Glass Company

A quick note to A. S. on your Blenko Glass piece and request for more info.

Blenko Glass Company was founded in 1893 by William J. Blenko (pictured at right) in Kokomo, Indiana. He was born in 1853 in London's East End, on 36 Wharf Road. He worked in London glass houses as early as 13 years and eagerly learned about glass formulation. In 1893 he came to America with the intention of starting the first glasshouse that could supply mouth blown (Antique) sheet glass for stained glass windows.

At this time, all antique glass was produced in Europe (France, England, Germany), which is still the case today. He arrived in Kokomo, Indiana and set up a small shop. In time, he hired and trained other glass workers. It was here that he became friends with Eugene Debs, founder of the American Railway Union, forerunner of the American Socialist Party. This friendship continued until Debs' death in 1924 and beyond, when William Blenko directed that his ashes be spread on Debs grave in 1933. William remained in Kokomo until 1903, when economics in America forced the factory to close. He also became aware of the prejudice against American-made glass. Since the studios were owned by former Europeans, they had a natural bias in favor of European glass. William Blenko faced this prejudice until he died. Later, in 1909 he again started a factory in Point Marion, Pennsylvania, and later Clarksburg, WV, both of these ventures failed.

A letter indicates he was working in Bellaire, Ohio in 1919 at an unknown glass factory for $40.00 a week. He was offered a job at Tiffany's in New York for $50.00 a week and he apparently took this job. Finally in 1921, he decided to move to Milton, WV, because of the natural gas price; he was now 67 years old, an age when most people retire. Working by himself, he blew the glass cylinders, flattened them into sheets and then went on the road in his Model T car to sell them.

The original name of the company was Eureka Glass Company. It was called this because William J. Blenko spent years trying to find a ruby red sheet glass that would not change colors when painted and fired. When he developed this color, he threw his arms in the air, and said "Eureka, I've found it!" Hence, the name Eureka. In 1923, his 26-year-old son William H. Blenko Sr. , with wife Marion and two-year-old son William Jr. joined him in Milton. This is when the factory really took off.

see more at http://www.blenkoglass.com/history.html

The History of Glass Making

Had a few recent requests for information on glass and how and when it was first made.

No one knows exactly when or where glass was first made. Glass appears to have been produced as far back as the second millennium BC by the Egyptians & perhaps the Phoenicians. Yet evidently it originated in Mesopotamia, where pieces of well made glass have been found, believed to date from the third millennium BC.Glass was a lot less common back then than it is today. It was very precious, and in the Bible glass has been compared to gold. (Job 28:17)

The art of glass making eventually reached Egypt. The Egyptians used a method called core-forming. A shaped core was made of clay and dung, then molten glass was wrapped around it and shaped by rolling it on a smooth surface.It was very much later, around the end of the 1st century BC, that a new method, glass blowing would revolutionize glass production. This art was probably discovered along the Eastern Mediterranean coast, probably is Syria. By blowing through a hollow tube, the experienced glassblower can quickly produce intricate and symmetrical shapes out of the "gather" of molten glass at the end of his tube (rod). Alternatively, he can blow the molten glass into a mould.

The glassblowing innovation, along with the backing of the powerful Roman Empire, made glass products more accessible to the common people. As the size of the Roman Empire increased, the art of glass making spread spread to many countries.

See more at http://www.antiquesndynasties.com/lead_crystal.htm

Antiques & Dynasties

Well, here we go. Decided to set up a blog. Have I committed myself to a lifetime of slavery?

I receive many requests for valuations online and information about a variety of antiques and subject matter, so thought it might be easier to answer via this blog.

Also, our library on the website is growing (http://www.antiquesndynasties.com/FAQ.htm) so vistors can check there first and I will always try and provide new articles of interest or answer questions on this blog.

Regards - John